Friday, October 12, 2007

Langkawi lingers


















I just got back from a short but satisfying holiday from Malaysia's famous island -- Langkawi. "Lang" in Langkawi is from the Malay word "helang" for eagles. The island is the natural habitat for the medium-sized orange-brown Brahminy kites.

This was my second trip to Langkawi. The first was nearly two decades ago when it was still undeveloped and, apart, from looking at the sea, it was a boring! But this time, I had fun!

The first day was stressful because I hired this creaking and squeaking Proton Iswara (yes, if you go to Langkawi, you must hire a car to get around) whose meters were all set at zero! The first thing you do is, of course, to fill up your tank. Then, driving around I panicked because I did not know when the fuel would run out! And petrol stations in Langkawi are not found just round the corner! Well, I managed to find my way around, while giving my arms good exercise handling a non-power steering wheel!

Apart from that, everything else was simply enjoyable. I booked a standard twin-sharing room at the Awana Porto Malai (4-star hotel, but I would give it a very high 3-star rating!), but, I suppose because it was the off-peak season (the week before Hari Raya) they upgraded it to a pretty and cosy deluxe room with a balcony and an astounding view of the sea landscaped by a series of islands. On the last day, after a hearty breakfast, all I did was sit on the balcony and soaked in the view until checkout time!

There, really, is a lot to see in Langkawi unlike the last time I was there. There is the Underworld Water Langkawi, which features a huge range of very small fishes of amazing shapes and colours. The tanks with the big fishes were closed because the fishes had died of suspected poisoning. The tiny fishes are truly worth seeing. Imagine, for millions of years these tiny creatures have contributed to the balance of the ecosystem. In addition, there were penguins and a couple of playful seals as well. Entrance fee is RM 28 for MyKad holders and RM 38 for the rest.

Then, there is the cable car which is an exhilarating experience. The view from the peak, at 700m above sea level, is simply breath-taking. I took several pictures which will be uploaded and posted as soon I learn to how to do it! And, we were serendipitiously favoured with the sight of a rainbow that fell on the lush curly foliage of the rainforest on the land-side view from the cable car. Wow! Rainbow on rainforest on your left and mystic islands on ocean on your left! Wow!

Another "wow" is the eagles. It is the highlight of the island-hopping trip (RM 40). A longer one which includes visits to a mangrove, fish farm and bat cave costs about RM 120. One operator gave a discount to women at RM 80! The tour takes you to an island with a huge inland lake and monkeys who don't mind posing for you and to another with a beach with silky sand where you can safely swim, and then the main show -- eagle feeding.

That was a treat! The boat operator throws chicken skin on the water. And, soon, a flock of birds will descend swirling, dipping and swooping down to the water surface to pick up the food with their talons and fly away. I was agape! I have never seen so many eagles flying about so freely all at the same time -- and at such close quarters! Among the brown winged Brahminy kites, I saw a larger white-bellied sea eagle. What a marvellous sight! Seeing them with their wings stretched out, swinging out into the open, hovering and circling and swooping down to pick up their food! Wow! That was, indeed, a treat!

There were other things to see. Upon arrival at the airport, you can get a map and brochures of what Langkawi offers. Instead of paying for airport transfers, just hire a car to see places! You can do that, too, at the airport. But be prepared to top up your fuel regularly because the cheaper cars are usually guzzlers! They won't tell you, but you have to pay parking (RM2) to park your car when you return it. If you raised it as an issue, they (tour operators) will tell you -- softly but firmly -- that that is our expense, not theirs!

That's the nicest thing about Langkawi. The people there are unhurriedly nice! It is truly pleasant Malay hospitality! Even when you are upset, they will maintain this calm laid-back niceness. What a refreshing change from the crass ugly competitiveness of the Klang Valley!

Back to Langkawi -- you can find food of all types there. I found an inexpensive place called the Boat Restaurant just outside the Holiday Villa which serves Chinese food at reasonable prices. A small Singapore fried mee hoon costs only RM4. Another place which serves really good Indian food is the Tulsi Garden. It is slightly pricey, a vegetable dish can cost from RM 9 to RM 14 and good for 3 or 4 people -- depending on your appetite -- but very tasty!

At Telaga Harbour, you can get a choice selection of Western food -- even Russian cuisine! The lively place for eating, drinking (there are a few bars) and socialising is, of course, along Cenang Beach. You can get all sorts of food, trinkets and accommodation at varying prices.

Night entertainment is not much. But, for bonding while holidaying, Langkawi is a great place! And, not so expensive. I took the AirAsia Go Holiday 3D2N-package for only RM 615 for two. The package included flight and accommodation at Awana Porto Malai with daily buffet breakfast. I spent about RM 400 for other expenses.

And, bring a lot of cash! In Langkawi only a few outlets accept cards. In most places, they want cash!

Despite the few inconveniences, all in, I think, it was a pleasant breakaway from the frenzy of urban rush.
Captions for pix: Eagles descending/Mystic islands on ocean

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